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Repair and refurbishment for lithium battery packs, service support for the packs we build, and battery swapping for electric two- and three-wheelers. Every pack is opened, tested on proper equipment and diagnosed before anything is quoted.
Most lithium packs that get written off are not finished — they have one failed group, a tripped BMS or a bad joint, and nobody opened them to find out. We repair lithium battery packs of any brand and any chemistry: e-rickshaw, e-loader, scooter, e-cycle and inverter batteries, whether we built them or not.
The charger is connected but nothing goes in. Usually a BMS that has latched off after a protection event, a failed charge port or connector, or a charger that has quietly died. Almost always recoverable.
A pack that did a full day last month and half a day now normally has one weak string dragging the rest down, not a worn-out battery. We find the weak cells and tell you whether replacing them is worth it.
Runs fine empty, trips when loaded or on a climb. Over-current protection doing its job, a loose busbar, or a group of cells sagging under current. Diagnosed under actual load on the bench.
Dead pack, nothing on the display, vehicle will not start. Could be as small as a blown fuse or a disconnected balance lead, or as serious as a failed BMS.
Charged on Sunday, flat on Monday. Either a parasitic drain in the vehicle or one cell self-discharging far faster than the rest. Worth catching early, before it takes the string with it.
Warm on charge or warm on the road. Often a high-resistance joint or a cell that is working harder than the others. This is the one not to keep riding on — bring it in.
Monsoon, a flooded road, a washed vehicle. Corrosion on the terminals, water in the enclosure and a BMS that may or may not have survived. Often repairable if it comes in soon.
Shows full then drops to nothing, or never reaches 100%. Usually the BMS state of charge calibration rather than the cells, and often fixable without opening much.
One group drifting away from the rest, so the pack cuts off long before it is actually empty. We balance the pack and find out why it drifted.
Discoloured lugs, melted insulation, a connector that has been arcing. Fixable, and worth fixing immediately rather than after it takes the cell with it.
A bulging cell, a dented enclosure after an accident. We will tell you honestly whether it is repairable or whether it should be retired.
Sometimes the pack tests perfectly and the fault is in the controller, wiring or charger. We would rather tell you that than sell you a repair you do not need.
Send us photos of the pack and a description of what it is doing. We will tell you what it is likely to be and whether it is worth repairing before you move it anywhere.
Send us the details →We build packs across all of these, which is why we can repair them regardless of whose badge is on the enclosure. Cells, BMS, busbars, wiring, connectors and enclosures are all work we do every day on our own line.
Every pack goes through the same sequence. No repair is started before you have seen what is wrong and what it costs.
The pack is opened and tested cell by cell — voltages, internal resistance, balance, BMS behaviour and how it holds up under load. Test equipment, not a screwdriver and an opinion.
You are told what is actually wrong, in plain language, including when the answer is that the pack is not worth repairing or that the fault is not in the battery at all.
Cost to repair, against what a replacement would cost, so the decision is yours and you have the numbers to make it.
Cells replaced and matched, BMS repaired or replaced, busbars, wiring, connectors and enclosure put right.
The repaired pack is charged, load-tested and balance-checked before it goes back, the same way a new pack is tested before it leaves the line.
Packs we built are serviced by the people who built them, with the cell specification, BMS settings and test records for your pack already on file. Raise a service request by scanning the code below, or call the service line and we will take it from there.
Packs in warranty are assessed and handled directly by our service team.
Older packs are repaired on the same bench and to the same standard as warranty work.
Operators running VoltBee packs across a fleet can deal with us directly rather than through a dealer.
Scan the code to open our service request form, or call the service line above.
Charging takes a vehicle off the road for hours. Swapping takes minutes — a rider or driver pulls in with a depleted pack, exchanges it for a fully charged one and carries on earning. It suits electric two-wheelers and three-wheelers alike, and it matters most to anyone whose vehicle only earns while it is moving. The packs on the network are our own LFP packs, charged, monitored and maintained by us, so the driver never owns the battery or its depreciation.
If you ride or drive an electric two- or three-wheeler, or run a fleet of them, get in touch and we will explain how swapping works, where we operate and what it costs.
Ask about swapping →Most batteries declared dead are not. Six things that decide whether yours gets fixed or replaced.
Yes. We repair lithium battery packs of any brand and any chemistry — e-rickshaw, e-loader, electric scooter, e-cycle and inverter batteries — whether VoltBee built them or not.
Usually yes. A pack that will not accept charge is most often a BMS that has latched off after a protection event, a failed charge port or connector, or a faulty charger rather than dead cells. It needs to be opened and tested to be sure.
Often not. A sudden drop in range usually means one weak group of cells is limiting the whole pack. Replacing and matching those cells can restore most of the capacity for far less than a new battery.
Often, if it is looked at soon. Water typically causes terminal corrosion and may damage the BMS; both can be repaired. The longer a wet pack is left, the less likely that becomes.
Heat usually means a high-resistance joint or cells working harder than the rest, and it is the one symptom not to keep riding on. Stop using the pack and have it checked.
Sometimes the pack tests perfectly and the fault is in the controller, wiring or charger. Testing the pack on the bench settles it, and if the battery is fine we will tell you so.
It depends entirely on what is wrong — a connector or a BMS is a different job from replacing a group of cells. The pack is diagnosed first and you get the cost, alongside what a replacement would cost, before any work starts.
LFP and NMC packs, prismatic and cylindrical, from 12V inverter batteries up to 74V traction packs. If it is a lithium pack, it is worth asking.
Yes. We run battery swapping for electric two- and three-wheelers using our own LFP packs — a depleted pack is exchanged for a charged one in minutes instead of waiting out a charge cycle. Get in touch for where we operate and what it costs.
Send us photos of the pack and tell us what it is doing. We will tell you what it is likely to be and whether it is worth repairing.